I can still not believe that – finally–I finished the Marfy Jacket.
The last post about it was in July last year. All I had to do was placing the pockets, hemming and inserting the lining. But after summer I was not motivated to work on the jacket and so it hang on my dress form and looked at me accusingly every day…
I found my motivation in this book: Thomas von Nordheim, Vintage Couture Tailoring. I had this on my wishlist forever, and finally decided to buy it. I was not disappointed. Usually, I skip the first chapters of sewing books, but this one kept my interest and I read it from cover to cover.
I did not just finish the jacket according to the instructions, I even unpicked the hem (that I had already catchstiched in place) and the sleeves! I followed the instructions step by step. Most steps are described very clearly, and together with the pictures easy to follow.
The jacket is far from perfect, but it was a great learning experience and I am confident to use these techniques again for future jackets.
So, what did I do?
I unpicked my already catchstiched hem and placed silk organza strips at the bottom. As the hem line is curved, I did not use a single strip, but several pieces, always from seam to seam.
What was completely new to me was a technique that has you ease in the armhole to get the fabric closer to the body:
You see in the picture above the difference (left side is not yet eased in). The difference is subtle.
The sleeve cap was eased in before pinning it into the armhole. When I was happy how it hang, I first basted it in, then sewed it with the machine. The sleeve head is padded with ice wool. This works really good, as you can push it into the cap. I added also thin shoulder pads.
I do not recall all the single steps for the sleeve vent, but these vents are the best I have done so far.
I added piping around the jacket. It is quite easy but looks so much more professional. I used fabric scraps from my Marfy blouse. The only issue I had was with that corner at the neckline. I needed half an hour figuring out how to fold the piping so that it went around this corner only to realize that it was too much on the outside. Again half an hour to realign it….
Here is an inside view of the jacket before attaching the lining:
I wanted to use the same lining as for my Marfy skirt, but it was too sheer. I found a dark green taffeta like lining fabric in my stash that matched beautifully. It is a bit thick and was difficult to handle, probably more suitable for a coat and not a jacket.
Body and sleeves of the lining were attached separately. Attaching the body was easy, but I had some difficulties with the sleeves. You really have to pay attention that you do not pull on the lining too much so that it causes wrinkles in the jacket itself.
When everything was pinned securely in place, the fellstitching was an easy go.
I always find it difficult to choose the right buttons as they can change the appearance of a garment significantly. A good solution are self-fabric covered buttons. That’s what I did. I made 12 buttons, 4 four the pockets and 4 for each sleeve vent. I really love how the sleeves vents are looking!
I have worn the jacket to work already several times, it really fills a gap in my wardrobe. I am not so sure about the quite boxy shape (I have already taken it in a bit in the back and site seams) and the front without closure (it looks a bit bare), but I feel very comfortabel in it. The blouse I am wearing with it is Vogue 8747.