What you get out of 4m cotton jersey

Last year in April I ordered 4 m of cotton jersey in ecru (96% cotton, 4% elasthan) from pepelinchen intending to sew some basic T-shirts that I could wear in winter under blouses or my hand-knitted sweaters. 9 months later I finally sat down and took the time for this project. All in all, I made 2 short-sleeved T-shirts, 2 long-sleeved T-shirts, 1 top, 1 bra and 3 panties. I found some matching lace that I used for the lingerie pieces (and I made a fourth panty from the lace scraps and some other jersey scraps, so it does not officially count).

I started with Burda 02/2005 107 in size 36, my so far favorite T-shirt pattern. This is the version with the modified sleeve cap and neckline:

I was not quite happy with the overall fit, it felt too tight and there were a lot of wrinkles around the sleeves. I was not very careful when I sewed them in, so this might be why. Nevertheless, I wanted to try a different pattern. I found the Bondi knit fitted T-shirt from Sinclair Patterns in my library and made the first version without modifications in size S. The front and back pieces of this pattern are identical except for the neckline. Accordingly, the sleeve cap is symmetrical with no difference between the front and back. I was a bit skeptical when I noticed this, but I think the fit is not so bad. Might be because the shirt has a lot of negative ease.

I then decided to make the Burda shirt one size larger and with long sleeves, and also a long-sleeved version of the Bondi knit shirt. As the Bondi pattern comes only with short sleeves, I just lengthened the sleeves and used the Burda pattern as a reference. I did not bother to make a pattern piece, I just drew the lines on the fabric with a Frixion pen. For both versions, I used the large neckline of the Idylwild Shirt pattern from Itch to Stitch.

Burda size 38, long sleeve
Bondi Knit top

The scrap fabric was just enough to make a top. Some time ago I purchased the pepelinchen top from pepelinchen and decided to give it a go. I made a size 38. There was a lot of armhole gaping which I tried to reduce by cutting off 2cm from the top front side seam. The armhole is still too big for me as you can see from the side view. Just before adding the binding (which is from a different jersey I happened to have in the stash) I had the idea to add a bit of lace to the front.

The last scraps were enough for three panties and a bra. I used my TNT patterns, the Watson bikini and Maya bra. I found a beautiful lace in my stash that was a perfect match. I think it gives the underwear a wintery look.

Usually I do not cut the elastics before and sew them on with a slight tension overlapping at the end. Since I made the Wednesday cheekies, I use the method that Erin describes: cut the needed length of elastic, close it, mark the quarters on lace and panties, and sew it on. I think the finish is a bit neater. As my serger was already set-up, I serged the side seams. I usually skip this step because I am too lazy to set-up my serger for this small seam, but it definitively is a much nicer look.

Nothing much to say a bout the Maya. I lined it with foam this time. I did mess up the wire channeling a bit, it should have been a bit higher in the center.

I was not in the mood to put any scraps back to my stash, so from the rest of the lace I made some Wednesday cheekies. I had enough lace for the front, but not for the back. I used some other scrap jersey from my stash. I had to change the back piece a bit to make sure that the side seams match. I also changed the construction in a way that the crotch seams are fully enclosed.

I am very happy with the underwear, not quite so much with the Burda shirts. Somehow the fit is not quite right. I do have a small bust but still have the feeling that I would need more fabric across the front. The fit is a bit tight over the bust and when I stand straight, the front hem comes up.

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