Adventures with Pants

I love dresses: I love wearing them, and I love sewing them. But I realized, that most of the time I wear trousers. Until now I have avoided sewing trousers, as I was always afraid that I would not get the fit right. And I still am.

I started my adventure with the craftsy course “Pant Fitting Techniques” with Sandra Betzina. The class comes with a pattern (Vogue 2948):

V2948

This pattern is not quite my style, but I decided to give it a try. I made my muslin and of course had some fitting issues.  The crotch seam was too tight and there were many drag lines in the back. I was able to improve the crotch seam, but I did note figure out where the drag lines came from. However, I made the trousers in a linen/cotton blend, and they turned out to be much wider than the muslin. They are good enough to be worn at home, though.

 2014-04-23-Vogue 2948-vorne2014-04-23-Vogue-2948-hinten

I then thought it would make more sense to spend my time fitting a pattern that I like more. I had another Vogue pattern (1051) in my stash:

V1051

Nearly two years ago I had started this trousers. Pockets and zipper were already sewn, but for some reason I never finished it. I only had to complete all seams and add the waistband. The fit was much better, but a bit tight around the crotch and hip area.

V1051_vorneV1051_hinten

The fabric wrinkles quite easily….

I really like the back pocket detail:

V1051_Taschen_Detail

The front is closed with hook and eye.

V1051_Detailvorne

In the next step I graded the pattern to a bigger size and made my next trousers. Due to fabric shortage these are only shorts:

V1051_Shortsvorne

V1051_Shortssiteview

This time I closed the waistband with buttons:

V1051_ShortsFrontdetail

I am still not sure about the fit, and there are so many wrinkles in the back. But everytime I try to figure this out, my brain starts to hurt. I just dont’t get it.

My next attempt will be to copy  RTW trousers with the help of Kenneth King’s craftsy course “Jeanius”. I hope it will not work for jeans only. Has anybody tried this class?

 

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