The top is already looking quite nice. We still have to do the neckline and the hem. Today we are sewing the neckline. But before we start, we finish the front. You have two opportunities: the facing can be folded either to the outside or to the inside. This is independent from how you finish the neckline, with or without ruffles.
View A: Facing on the outside
With left sides together pin the two front pieces at center front and stitch. I marked the center front with a trick marker.
Press the seam allowances of the facing.
Press the center seam.
Before topstitching the facings I pin.
When topstitching along an edge I like to use my quilting presser foot. It does have a guide in the center which helps to keep the pressure foot in place. I shift the needle position to the left.
View B: Facing on the inside
If you want to put the facings to the inside, you make the opposite. With right sides together pin the two front pieces at center front and stitch.
Unfortunately I do not have more pictures for this view. But the steps are the same as above.
Preparation of the neckband and tie
Now we prepare the neckband and tie. This is the same for both versions. First with right sides together pin and stitch both pieces together at the short ends to get one long strip. I also stitched the ruffle pieces together at the same time.
Fold the strip in half lenghtwise with left sides together and press. Then fold the sides to the center and press again.
The strip should look like this. You could also use a bias tape maker.
View A with ruffels
We already sewed the ruffle pieces together to get a long strip. Now fold the strip in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch the short ends together.
The ends will be turned right side out. With rectangular corners I do not trim the seam allowances but fold them to one side….
….grap with the thumb from the inside and with the index finger I hold the seam allowance down while turning everything outside.
As a result you have perfectly shaped corners.
Now prepare the ruffles for gathering and stitch two rows of stitches with a long stitch length within the seam allowance along the raw edge.
Place the center back of the ruffle to the center back of the inside of the bodice. The raw edge of the ruffle is even with the raw edge of the neckline.
Align the end of the ruffle with the center front.
Now with a lot of patience pull the threads and start gathering the ruffle, distribute the gathers evenly and pin.
Now place the prepared neckband and tie on top of the ruffle so that the center crease lays upon the seam line. We have a 1cm (5/8″) seam allowance and the distance between the creases is also 1cm (5/8″), so if you align the upper crease with the raw edge of the neckline the center crease is placed over the seam line automatically.
Pin and stitch from center front to center front along the neckline. Secure seam.
Grade seam allowances ….
…and press ruffle up.
Now fold the edges of the neckband and tie to the inside and then fold the upper part down and pin.
Before I pin the ends of the tie this way I fold the short ends to the inside. I don’t like raw edges.
Edgestitch along the open edge from one end to the other. You can leave the ends as is. I made some knots. You can also add pearls to the ends.
View B without ruffle
Place the center back of the neckband and tie to the center back of the inside of the bodice. But, different from view A, align the upper edge of the neckband with the raw edge of the neckline. The upper crease is now placed over the seam line (This is not described correctly in the instructions, but the picture is correct).
Pin and stitch along the upper crease from center front to center front. Secure the seam. Trim seam allowances and press the neckband up. Fold the neckband along the center crease so that the seam allowances are enclosed. Pin and edgestitch. The ends of the tie can be folded to the inside as described above, so you do not have any raw edges.
Now the only thing to do is hemming!